Does representation matter?
Identity forms an increasingly critical part of our culture, shaping policies, interactions and online discourse. But how important is seeing people who ‘look like you’ for our psychological well-being? What is the value of having representation in fashion, media and popular culture?
In the context of identity politics and culture wars, the discourse surrounding who we are, how we define ourselves and how we present that to the world, seems to have reached a fever pitch. But is it really that important?
Research has shown that a lack of representation can have negative consequences on our body image and mood and impact our shopping behaviours and decisions.
Let’s explore what this means for fashion.
You are what you see
Identity informs what people watch. People want to see their identities, passions, and values reflected.
Due to the increasing time spent online and consuming digital media, seeing people who look like you can be a powerful motivator for people to engage with content and brands.
A survey by Google found that less than half of the 10,000 people questioned, felt proud, represented, noticed or included in the media content they consume.
If we can address this disparity, we may be able to engage shoppers and inspire loyalty, as brands that advocate for diversity can form deep and valuable connections with audiences.
Elsewhere, a small but interesting study has shown that seeing ourselves reflected in art makes it more appealing. The study found that whether we find something beautiful has more to do with how well the subject matter resonates with our sense of who we are. The personal relevance of what is being shown is critical in shaping responses.
Therefore, when considering campaigns and content, it may be a good idea for brands to be clear on who and what they are trying to showcase and whether the intended audience can see themselves reflected in it.
Putting the ‘I’ in buy
When it comes to representation and purchase decisions, seeing ourselves reflected impacts our consumption.
Decision science would suggest that when marketing across cultures and groups, judgements of what signals connect to what concepts should be made by people who have the necessary environmental knowledge for where the marketing activity will take place.
In other words, these shared ideas are culture-specific and require accurate representation when developing them in order to ensure the intended message is portrayed and perceived correctly.
Moreover, if done well, catering to an underrepresented community can foster loyalty and trust between customers and brands.
For example, since 1990, the purchasing power of black consumers in the US has grown faster than the national average.
Recent research examining the impact of the model on purchase decisions has shown that how they look can be influential. When the product advertised was accompanied by images of black models, black participants showed an increased intention of buying as well as a willingness to spend a higher amount of money.
Suggesting that it may cost advertisers to not be inclusive and would be advantageous for them to target black audiences in their campaigns.
Negative effects of representation
However, representation is not always positive. Research looking at how beautiful models affect product evaluations has shown that comparison with highly attractive models can have negative effects on advertising effectiveness.
If seeing the model generates negative emotions for consumers, as a consequence of comparing themselves with the beautiful models, evaluations of the model as a spokesperson and the product may be affected adversely.
Further, misrepresentation of black models, like through instances of cultural appropriation, reduces the black model into a commodity made up of her constituent parts. This othering has repercussions.
A study found that white audiences are less accepting of advertisements which predominantly feature darker-skinned black models. The result of this can be seen in the disparity between the amount of black versus white models being featured in fashion advertising, magazine covers and campaigns.
However, more recent research suggests that the effect of blackness on white audiences is more mixed and not as negative as once believed.
The absence of representation can affect the non-represented group too. Research examining the lack of black models in fashion imagery found that it leads to black audiences feeling that fashionable styles are not created for them. This lack of representation can lead to a sense of invisibility and valuelessness.
Representation and challenging norms
Fashion has long been a form of self-expression, allowing people to showcase their beliefs, personality and identity through their clothing choices.
Notably, it has been used as a tool to deconstruct norms about gender and dress. In the latest modern iteration, gender fluidity is increasingly being adopted on the runways and incorporated into campaigns. Famous high street retailers exhibit new ‘genderless’ collections and gender-fluid clothing is forecasted to grow 4.5% annually by 2028.
Moreover, when it comes to reconciling one’s identity, clothing is a vital tool. For example, among trans individuals, clothing is a way to masculinise or feminise the body and can help people manage any dissatisfaction.
Therefore greater representation not only allows audiences to express themselves but can help them feel more at home in the world too.
Does representation matter?
Research has shown that a lack of representation can have negative consequences on our body image and mood and impact our shopping behaviours.
People want to see their identities, passions, and values reflected in what they view. Brands that advocate for diversity can form deep and valuable connections with audiences. However, a lack of representation can lead to a sense of invisibility and valuelessness. It also can cost advertisers to not be inclusive.
Final thoughts:
What forms of representation would you like to see more of in fashion media?
Do you think model diversity in fashion advertisements influences purchase decisions?
Would greater representation change your fashion consumption?
I would love to know what you think! Let me know in the comments, or send me an email at: hellocandicewalker@gmail.com, with your thoughts.
Key points - Does representation in fashion matter?
In a landscape of identity politics, culture wars, and debates about increasing diversity, how important is it to see people who ‘look like you’?
Studies suggest that a lack of representation can have negative consequences on our body image and mood as well as impact our shopping behaviours and decisions
A lack of representation can lead to a sense of invisibility and valuelessness in the unrepresented groups, as well as cost advertisers for not being inclusive
People want to see their identities reflected in what they view and brands that advocate for diversity can form deep and valuable connections with audiences
Further Readings
Art that reflects us is more beautiful
A new study finds that seeing parts of themselves in the art makes paintings more appealing to viewers.
Can the promotion of black models in mainstream fashion consumption be changed?
Explore how the bias towards white models impacts marketing ideals, consumer attitudes towards representation and whether our visual consumption can be disrupted to allow for a more inclusive spectrum of beauty.
How identity informs what people watch
Hear about research conducted by Google about the role of identity in people’s media choices, how UK media and advertising industries can focus on diversity, equity and inclusion and the role open platforms play in supporting representative content.
If you have a comment about this article, or a tip for a future post, email me at: hellocandicewalker@gmail.com.
