Can appropriation ever be appreciated?
Dress forms an important part of our identity, carrying significant personal meanings and influencing how we are perceived.
So when your culture is used as the latest mood board inspo, it can feel like a personal affront. But what is the psychological impact of cultural appropriation and what does it mean for the fashion industry?
The Psychology of Cultural Appropriation
Fashion is a way of expressing oneself and is a contributor to personal and cultural identity. Often fashion designers seek inspiration from other cultures, using cultural artefacts as inspiration for their clothing.
However, contention arises when the cultural artefacts and practices which they co-opt as ‘trends’ have significant value and purpose in the culture that they took inspiration from, and this meaning is then lost.
Dress forms an important part of our identity, influencing how we are perceived and how we move through the world. What you wear also carries significant personal meanings. So when your culture is used as the latest mood board inspo, or taken from its original context and paraded down the runway, it can feel like a personal affront.
But is it actually that harmful?
Let's explore the psychological impact of cultural appropriation and what this means for the fashion industry.
What is appropriation?
Cultural appropriation can be defined as “the taking of intellectual property, cultural expression or artefacts” and applying it to an unrelated culture. Similarly, it involves the “assimilation and exploitation of marginalized and colonised cultures” and is involved in the “survival of subordinated cultures and their resistance to dominant cultures”. In this way, cultural appropriation is as much a social as a political act. It is about power.
In fashion, cultural appropriation looks like Marc Jacobs sending white models with wool ‘dreadlocks’ down the runway in SS17. Or, a hierarchy within the industry in which indigenous people are hired to make luxury fashion but do not have the opportunity to own the clothing systems.
Although, there is nuance to this discussion of what constitutes appropriation. Arguably, a large part of what is considered appropriative is informed by the conditions of the appropriation and the context in which it happens.
Why do people appropriate?
Humans are social creatures, and imitation not only has social but evolutionary benefits.
We are inspired by the world around us, and this cultural sharing, when done ethically, can not only be advantageous to the inspired but the inspiration too. For example, slow fashion label Welana highlights the beauty of Ethiopian artistry – and works alongside the communities that create it.
Psychology would suggest that people appropriate due to the psychosocial benefits of copying. Namely, through copying, we learn skills and cultural rituals, as well as feel a sense of belonging.
Our propensity for imitation can give rise to what anthropologists call cumulative culture - the long-term development of skills and technologies over generations. Perhaps appropriation is driven by our instinct to acquire skills and learn.
However, in our polarised and unequal world, there is not a level playing field when it comes to status and power. Culture is also capital. Cultural artefacts, practices and symbols have real-world consequences for people.
What is the psychological impact of appropriation?
We must be aware of how cultural appropriation impacts the affected groups and what it signals about the cultural climate and social conditions.
Fashions, trends and what is suggested about the groups who engage in certain styles of dress remain a critical feature of modern culture. Perhaps in this #aesthetic, ‘core’ist’, trend-obsessed day and age, its tribalism is even more apparent.
What you wear matters for how you are treated and what you believe about yourself, clothes have personal, social and political meanings. Therefore, there is an intimate relationship between how we dress, how we move through the world and how we are impacted by (our) appearance.
Historically, the fashion industry has often turned a blind eye towards incidents of appropriation from marginalised groups. Whilst the available research is sparse, studies suggest that ignoring this issue can be detrimental.
An analysis of social media feeds and newspapers commenting on instances of cultural appropriation in fashion has shown that there are significantly more negative responses and public outrage to such acts.
Cultural appropriation can also have negative impacts on those who are appropriated from.
For Native Americans, research has shown that using Native names for sports teams can lower their self-esteem, whilst bolstering white Americans’. As well as, exposing them to the sports mascots lowered the achievement-related goals they set for themselves, and diminished both their sense of community worth and belief that their community can improve itself.
In the beauty industry, cultural appropriation can lead to mental health issues, especially among people of colour. When your natural features are praised on others but criticised on you, that can cause harmful consequences for how you see yourself.
How can fashion appreciate and not appropriate?
Although, when done ethically, appreciation can be an effective tool for bridging cultures and bringing light to indigenous craftsmanship and practices. Cultural appreciation involves celebrating or showing respect and honour for a culture.
Researching the culture you are inspired by, collaborating with someone from that culture and giving credit when you are influenced by something, are some of the ways fashion can be appreciative, rather than appropriative.
Textiles designer, Ellen Rock working with artisans in Nepal, exchanging ideas and skills (Credit: Ellen Rock)
Progress is being made - The British Council’s Crafting Future Community Culture projects bring together designers from different cultures to collaborate on rented garments, with a focus on telling the story behind the garment’s evolution.
Elsewhere, the Cultural Intellectual Property Rights Initiative connects designers with traditional artisans in a way that ensures their cultural intellectual property is respected via consent, credit and compensation.
At a time when division seems to be rife, respectfully connecting and collaborating across borders might be just what the industry, and our world, needs.
Can appropriation ever be appreciated?
Fashion is a way of expressing oneself and is a contributor to personal and cultural identity, and fashion designers often seek inspiration from other cultures. However, issues can arise when the cultural artefacts and practices which they co-opt as ‘trends’ have their meaning lost and disrespected. Cultural artefacts, practices and symbols have real-world consequences for people. We must be aware of how cultural appropriation impacts the affected groups. Although, this cultural sharing, when done ethically and respectfully, can not only be advantageous to the inspired but the inspiration too.
Final thoughts:
What do you think constitutes appropriation versus appreciation?
Can cultural sharing ever be a bad thing?
What are some ways the industry can change its practices for obtaining inspiration and engaging in cultural sharing?
Let me know what you think in the comments, or email me at hellocandicewalker@gmail.com. I would love to hear your thoughts!
Key points - The Psychology of Cultural Appropriation
Cultural appropriation has a long and torrid history in fashion, it involves using or taking something from another culture without proper recognition or respect for that culture
Cultural appropriation can have harmful effects, reinforcing stereotypes, negatively impacting mental health and disenfranchising marginalised groups
When done ethically, appreciation of other cultures can foster greater connection, as well as positively impact historically marginalised and oppressed groups
Further reading
The grey area between Cultural Appropriation and Appreciation | Vogue India
What defines cultural appropriation? | BBC
Fashion, its sacrifice zone and sustainability | Research article
